Kilimanjaro Day 1: The African Massage, Tiny Soap Bars, and the End of Relationship Mystery
- Emmelia Potts
- 3 days ago
- 13 min read
If you’ve followed my previous exploits, you’ll know I’m a glutton for punishment. But this task wasn’t just a random whim it was supposed to serve as a portion of my training towards a potential Mera and Island Peak expedition.
Fifteen years ago, at Annapurna Base Camp, the altitude hit me like a brick at around 3,800m. It felt like my head was being tightened in a vice and squeezed and it is a feeling I will never forget and one I do not want to re live. Therefore, before biting off more that I could chew with a revisit to Nepal, I wanted to see if I could cope by increasing my mountain heights slowly rather than just hoping for the best. My fiancé, Ben, was keen to join me on this trip after leaving me at the airport for Mongolia. So off we went for a holiday to climb Africa’s highest peak!
Blissful Ignorance and Last-Minute Logistics of Kilimanjaro
We arrived the day before our Kilimanjaro hike feeling suspiciously chipper, mainly due to the amount of training we had done, we were confident that we would finish this challenge because we had been smashing out altitude chamber training, gym sessions and back to back hikes along the seven sisters and South downs for months on end every weekend.
Our hotel room looked out toward the peak, but Kili was being shy, hiding behind a thick curtain of clouds. In hindsight this was a blessing as we couldn't see the magnitude of what we’d signed up for. As George Orwell said “Ignorance is bliss” and this was no exception.
We met our two guides at the hotel, Fred and Juma, for a kit check. "You will be fine," Juma gleefully beamed at us as he checked our kit.
"You are prepared. King and Queen of the mountain!" Fred explained to us that it is always obvious who has not trained or prepared well enough from this initial meeting and he felt we would be successful, this was a huge relief. Feeling like absolute legends, we loaded up on carbs talked about the “I wonders” of the 6 days ahead.
“I wonder if the food will be nice?”
“I wonder if the hills be as steep as they look online?”
“I wonder if the toilets will be holes or seats?”
There were a lot of “I wonders”
As we revisited a few of these questions online my heart sank. I saw a link
“Tips and the finish ceremony on Kili”.
I frantically scanned the post and realised we were meant to bring the tip money for the crew with us on the hike to present at a ceremony on the last day. Cue a last-minute logistics panic to find an ATM.
Day 1: Marangu Gate to Mandara Huts
Starting Altitude: 1,860m
Ending Altitude: 2,700m
Terrain: Rainforest dirt paths transitioning into steep, rocky steps.
We woke up to Kili still pulling a "shy bride" act hiding in the clouds (this is what the locals call it). We packed excitedly and met the team at the hotel entrance. Juma introduced us to our chef, waiter, and porters, all smiling and raring to go.
Our first stop was the ATM. We had read that around 15% of the trip cost would cover tips so this is what we allowed for. Fortunately, we had to pick up the rest of the crew who were waiting along the road at various places on route to the Marangu Gate, it was a bit like playing Grand Theft Auto and driving up to people to get a task. One by one they jumped on the bus with their belongings, a grin and a “Jambo” (Hello in Tanzanian). Fred hopped out for a quick food shop and then the real journey started, we could forget logistics and Fred and Juma took over. The roads were a chaotic weave of jolting as we darted through towns and villages, a sensation we later learned on safari is called an "African Massage."
We hit the Marangu Gate around 11:30 am in blistering, skin-sizzling heat where the only reprieve was the rainforest canopy dotted above our heads. Fred and Juma led us to a shaded area full of tables which was empty except for a Japanese man and an Australian girl called Hannah, they were just finishing up their lunches as we arrived but we had a quick chat and introduced ourselves.
We were told to sit and eat our lunch before the journey began, so we tucked into a rather large, hearty packed lunch of sandwiches, chicken, muffins, biscuits, and 2 litre bottles of water.
“If this is the food we get then we are onto a winner” I smiled at Ben as we both munched down the sandwiches, taking in the tranquil surroundings.
Fred ambled off to get our permits whilst the porters all sorted out their packs and started their walk to the first camp to set up our food and water for the night ready for our arrival. This seemed wrong given I was used to carrying all my gear in Nepal, however we did not argue as it is after all their job and they survive off this exact work. I made a mental note of perhaps we should pop into the ATM on the way back to the hotel to tip more now having seen what each person was carrying on their head. It was an incredible amount and they just carry on as if it is nothing, utterly incredible men and women.
We gobbled down the last of our packed lunches and got talking to two young local lads who were training to be guides. In Tanzania, being a Kili guide is high-status and most start as porters to work their way up to being a guide, being a porter first is an excellent way to become acquainted with the mountain. Even the owner of the company we booked through started out carrying bags, moved to a guide and then started his company. The young lads told us about the history of the mountain, which animals to look out for and warned us of the hard walk ahead.
Just as we were about to set off the peace was shattered. A bus pumping loud music, full of people cheering and shouting into GoPros, screeched into the car park.
"Great," I thought. "So much for tranquillity."
We later found out this group was a walking disaster zone of unpaid fees, guides abandoning them, and everyone falling out. Lesson learned, don't go on a 6-day trek with people you haven't seen in 7 years, and never pay for your trip in cash! There was a man in this group who was quite an incredible human, not for the right reasons, but we will get on to him later.
Submerged in Greenery: The Rainforest Zone
After a final nervous poo in the "proper" toilets (we thought these would be the last ones for a while!), Ben, Juma, and I set off in search of the start gate. Fred stayed back to get our permits finalised and waved us off with a big smile and promising to see us later. Walking through the entrance gate we were engulfed by tall trees, monkey calls, shrubs up to our shoulders and moist air, day 1 of 6 was well under way!
Day 1 was lovely and the rainforest was stunning. We got to know Juma who was full of smiles and personality, exchanged stories and information about our lives and generally had a lovely time walking through nature and immersing ourselves in the rainforest. There were no other hikers around us so it felt as if we were the only ones on the mountain, trekking through undiscovered lands and when we stopped talking there was a wonderous hum of nature around us, tranquil but full of life at the same time. Juma told us we were luck and that it was shoulder season, so only us and five other people were on the trail. However, he warned us the reason it was so quiet was the "guaranteed" torrential rain up to the summit base camp and freezing snow at the top.
“Ah well we have waterproofs with us we will be fine!” I grinned, though part of me did recall the biblical rains of Mongolia that no waterproofs could protect against. I had brought quick drying trousers with me in case it was the same here.
"DRINK!" I started barking at Ben every 20 minutes.
I was terrified of dehydrating in the heat and knew that altitude meant you had to consume more water generally too. Despite drinking non-stop the days before, on the bus and a litre and a half at lunch, my mouth was getting dry, but Ben was fully hydrated and weeing with Olympic consistency all over the place.
“My number one priority is Ben and getting him up safely and happily” I thought as I watched him wander off for his 4th wee of the afternoon. There were two reasons for this:
1- I love him lots and wanted him to survive his first high, multi day climb
2- I also selfishly hoped he would love it and want to come to Nepal with me. Stay tuned to see if that happened!
Halfway through the walk up, we saw Hannah the Australian girl in the distance. My competitive side did a little victory dance but I gave it a telling off to remind myself that with mountains it is not a sprint and rushing usually means altitude sickness. Ben and I liked Hannah immediately. She was a welcome change from the some of the arrogant "adventure" types you meet on these trips, reminding me of the good eggs I met on the Mongol Derby. We chatted at lunch briefly and got to know each other a bit before Juma wanted to crack on with our hike.
"King and Queen of Mountain! We go!" Juma chanted. “Hakunna matata!”
His enthusiasm seeped into our veins as we ambled through the rainforest chatting about some of the incredible world records up Kilimanjaro and how the mountain was formed.
"How are the legs?" I’d ask Ben after an hour of walking up wet, rocky, uneven steps.
"Great, feeling fresh with a P," he replied, Ben’s standard response when things were all good with life. Our outdoor training on rocky terrain and uneven ground seemed to be paying off. If we could get to day 4 with no niggles we had done well and would likely get to the top and back without a hitch, so I believed.
Luxury in a Log Cabin
After four and a half hours of hiking for the day, transitioning from dirt paths to steep, rocky steps, we reached Mandara Huts with no blisters and no niggles. We took some obligatory photos at the camp sign and did a little celebration at how good we felt. We had nailed our snacking frequency and taking on fluids was now second nature, we were in a great position.
After a few photos at the camp sign and signing in for the night we were shown to our log cabin.
"Gosh its quiet here" I said scoping out the immaculate camping ground on the side of the mountain "I know we are in off season but it is empty"
Ben nodded and smiled a knowing smile, he was thrilled at the prospect of peace and quiet for a good nights sleep!
We unpacked in our tiny but cosy and comfortable cabin and started to organise everything
knock knock "Water for wash?" came a small voice.
"Hello?" Ben and I both chanted, and on opening the door saw a man with two bowls of hot water and a teeny tiny bar of soap.
"Water for wash" The chap replied with a beaming smile. We learnt in the morning that his name was Martin.
"OOOO yes please!" I grinned. This was luxury, given we thought we would likely end up washing the vitals with face wipes for 6 days.
We took a bowl each and stripped off to wash. Let me tell you, watching your fiancé hunch over a plastic bowl trying to wash his groin with a teeny bar of soap really solidifies a relationship.
"Well, the mystery has well and truly gone now!" I beamed and we had a good laugh at each others expense on how unattractive we both looked washing in a cramped hut over a small bowl of water.
After a warm, unexpected, wash we put on our evening clothes and went to the canteen hut for some tea. On Kili there is tea time which results in hot choc, tea and coffee being presented to you and then you have dinner about an hour later which is a full on feast, you are never short of food. I got very excited about Milo hot chocolate and the massive plate of popcorn that as laid out on our table.
“Heaven!” I grinned at Martin when he came to take our empty plate away
“Thank you so much”. I am not sure what my expectations were, but they were already being exceeded.
After tea time we had a delicious, warming, hearty stew, it was the perfect way to round off the day and we both wolfed our food down with no issues. Fred and Juma came and did our pre bed check list to ensure we were okay and not suffering from altitude sickness. Heart rate, oxygen, and the diarrhoea report were all passed with flying colours.
Fred explained our route the next day and what we could expect... a bit more rainforest and then we would go into the moorland environment for our first glimpse of Kili from the hike. He described day 2 as long but a lovely gradual incline walk with beautiful views.
It’s worth noting that Kili isn't just one mountain; it’s four distinct climates:
Rainforest: Humid, lush, and full of monkeys.
Moorland: Heather, gorse, and alien looking plants.
Alpine Desert: High, dry, and dusty.
Arctic Summit: Ice, scree, and very cold.
We knew this before we started training as the various environments mean a lot of kit checking and prep work needs to be done. However, what we did not appreciate it just how pure each of those zones are until we were in them. The rainforest zone is like the deepest areas of the Amazon lush and maze like, the desert is like the Atacama in Chile, barren and desolate and the ice caps are like the Arctic circle. Nothing prepares you for just how amazing each area is and the stark contrast between each as you move from one to the next. You are literally on an ice cap one morning and then in a desert three hours later.
We said our goodnights to Fred, Juma, the other hikers and the porters, had a pre bed wee in a shock proper toilet again, and snuggled into our sleeping bags on thin but proper mattresses. This hiking malarky was not as bad as I remembered it being back in 2009, it was much more comfortable!
We fell asleep listening to the monkeys chattering in the trees above the hut and a gentle breeze drifting in through under the hut door.
Then halfway through the night, a headtorch flash lit up the hut and Ben woke up to go to the toilet. That’s when we saw the first taste of what was actually to come...
Top tips:
You can rent most of the required kit from the companies taking you up there. We bought ours as it will get reused, but we rented the sleeping bags so we did not have to lug them across the world.
When the guides tell you "Pole, Pole" (slowly, slowly), it isn’t a friendly suggestion. Day 1 feels quite easy you are on fresh legs, the altitude is not high yet and it is a nice steady climb, but do not rush. Burning your matches on day one is a guaranteed way to get your backside handed to you by altitude sickness on day five.
Relinquish Your Dignity at the Park Gate and accept immediately that your standards of personal privacy are dead and buried for the next six days. Also there are scales here for porters to weigh their bags to ensure they are not carrying too much weight. Weigh yourself on the way up and again on the way down to see how much you loose in the trek, its quite interesting.
You will not see a shower for a week. Instead, a porter will bring a small bowl of lukewarm water to your tent door twice a day. This Is your shower and the sooner you get used to doing the awkward squat and wash technique in front of people the better. Alternatively, don’t wash, we didn’t on the last day. You smell gross but sometimes you just might not have the energy.
Take emergency Imodium BUT do don’t use it unless you really have to! Generally speaking using Imodium is an issue as you end up bottling up the bacteria your body is trying to expel which makes you sick. However, if you were like us and were shooting water out every 30 minutes and it is impacting whether you are going to finish the hike then the guides advise taking it in small doses for emergencies. We didn’t, we suffered through and just took all the toilet breaks, but having it as an option is sensible.
You need to be chugging between 4 to 5 litres of water every single day to help your body adapt to the thinning air. Keep a timer to remind you. Also make sure you treat your water. I dread to think how ill we would have been if we had not been treating our drinking water.
The direct consequence of Tip 5 is you will need to pee every twenty minutes. Your entire hiking rhythm will be dictated by diving behind trees. Just ensure you check the surrounding foliage for stinging plants before you drop your trousers.
Do not leave anything in your main duffel that you might need during the day, because you won't see it again until sunset. Once the porters have your bag they are off at a seriously quick pace.
Kilimanjaro is notorious for sudden downpours in the moorland and rainforest zone. Even if you start the day taunting your guides about the perfect blue skies, pack your waterproof jacket and pack covers at the very top of your day bag.
The cooked food in camp might be hit or miss, but the lunchboxes provided for the trail are your primary fuel source. Eat the protein, hoard the carbs, and hide any snacks you don't eat in your pockets for the days ahead when your appetite completely vanishes.
Before you take your first official step past the Marangu sign, do a final check on your boots and socks. One rogue seam or a wrinkled sock on Day 1 will turn into a golf ball sized blister by Day 3, ruining your entire summit chance before you even see the alpine desert.
Don’t pay for your trip in cash, I would have thought this was obvious. Use a reputable travel agency or tour guide and pay on a credit card so you can get a refund from the bank if anything goes wrong.
You need to take your tip money with you on the hike, take it out before you get to the hotel!
Ask your tour guide to specify the cost of the trip and then the tips separately, do not relay on the internet as for a typical quote from your provider.
Learn some of the local language, the guides speak very good English but the rest of the crew do not know a huge amount so making the effort is appreciated.
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